01 February 2010

gluten-free crusty boule

the latest gluten-free bread

If you don't want to eat this bread, I'm going to have to check your pulse.

This is gluten-free.

my life the last few days

I wrote the sentences for this piece in my head, long before today. However, they have all disappeared in a haze of too-much coffee, too-little sleep, notes scrawled in orange marker, and a darling toddler interrupting it all (thank goodness).

The final copyedits for our cookbook were due today. We made the deadline, panting as we passed them over. (Well, metaphorically. We just pressed the send button together.) This photograph above? That has been my life the last few days. (Including the fact that I made recipe notes with Little Bean's crayons one afternoon.)

For the record, we're beaming. We really love our book. We think you will too.

However, the sentences I sang for days, celebrating the fact I could show you this bread? They've all disappeared.

And you are probably thinking: Shauna, that's okay. Just tell me how to make this bread.

lovely sandwich bread

Well okay, then.

This bread recipe comes from Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day, the wonderful new book from Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë Francois. Don't know their names? You know their other book, I'm sure: Artisan Bread in Five Minutes a Day. Almost everyone I know who can eat gluten makes bread out of that book. They all rave. The rest of us were left to feel sad, shunted off to the side again.

No more. Jeff and Zoë have published a second book, intended to be more healthy (whole grains, dried fruits, etc.). There's one chapter that makes the price of this book worth it for everyone reading who has to eat gluten-free: "Gluten-Free Bread and Pastries."

Jeff and Zoë are professionals, bakers who understand bread. And they gave their attention to us gluten-free folks.

That's right. Gluten-free olive oil bread. Gluten-free pizza. Gluten-free sesame baguette. Gluten-free cheddar and sesame bread. Crackers. Bread sticks. And brioche.

Plus, with the brioche recipe, you can make most of the pastries in the last chapter. That means apple strudel bread, doughnuts, sticky buns, cinnamon crescent rolls, and fruit-filled pinwheels.

Do you need me to write anything at all before you buy this book? Oh, just this.

They're good. May I direct your attention to the photo on top of this post again? That's the gluten-free boule from the book. Exactly as written.

It makes a lovely sandwich bread too.

And we made gluten-free naan the other day, with our friends Matt and Danika, and we all loved the way they puffed up and tasted.

Really, do you need more?

crusty loaf III

Does the fact that you can bake this bread as an enormous rosemary-kalamata olive loaf persuade you at all?

Look deep into the space between the two halves of the crust (I cut my pre-baking slices too deep. Normally, you don't get a crevasse like that). See those elastic strands, pulling as though in slow motion? Those look like gluten strands in bread.

Yep. This bread tastes like the real thing too.

crusty loaf with a bite

See that crumb? Do you want a bite? You can have one, soon.

The recipe is right below this next photo.

Now, normally, I don't publish a recipe as it's written in a book, or even close to it. Danny and I both respect and adore the people who work hard to create cookbooks. We think you should buy the cookbook itself to get the best recipes.

But here, we'll make an exception. You see, Jeff and Zoë already have the recipe published on their website, so we don't think they'll mind. Besides, there are at least a dozen other gluten-free recipes in the book that you will want to make. Giving you this one won't ruin your purchase.

And finally, we actually helped Jeff and Zoë develop this bread. We were honored to test their original recipe for them. We were nervous about telling them it wasn't very good. We were happy to offer a dozen suggestions about flours and techniques to make the recipe great. And we are thrilled with the final bread.

(You'll see that the bread recipe in our book has a similar structure, but other flours and different ingredients. Start making this recipe now and you'll be prepared for the next loaf by fall.)

So, since we had a hand in this recipe, we think it's fitting to offer it to you here.

Bread, people. It's real bread.

And, we're giving away a free copy of Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day to one commenter on this post. Just tell us something you have learned about gluten-free baking through your experiences. I know we can all learn from each other.


crusty rosemary-kalamata olive bread

Gluten-Free Crusty Rosemary and Kalamata Olive Bread, adapted from
Healthy Bread in Five Minutes a Day, by Jeff Hertzberg and Zoë Francois

I loved the rosemary loaf made by Essential Bakery in Seattle. My dear friend Gabe and I both loved it so much we used to leave it in each other's mailboxes as a present when the other was having a bad day. And I seemed to live on the olive loaf from Macrina Bakery in Seattle, just before I found out I had celiac.

I've missed both those breads. So I put them together and made this.

Now, go forth and bake.

1 cup brown rice flour
3/4 cup sorghum flour
1 1/2 cups tapioca flour
1 tablespoon granulated active dry yeast
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon xanthan gum
1 1/3 cups lukewarm water (heated to 110°F)
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons canola oil
1 tablespoon honey
2 handfuls kalamata olives, sliced
2 sprigs fresh rosemary, taken off the stem and finely chopped
olive oil
coarse sea salt

Mixing the flours. Mix together the brown rice flour, sorghum flour, tapioca flour, yeast, salt, and xanthan gum in the bowl of your stand mixer (or a large bowl, if you are doing this by hand).

Making the dough. Add the water, eggs, oil, and honey to the dry ingredients. Mix with the paddle attachment (or with a large spoon if you are mixing by hand) for a few moments until the dough has fully come together. It will be soft. It will sort of slump off the paddle. Don't worry. That's the right texture. Add the olives and rosemary and mix one more time.

Letting the dough rise. Put the dough in a large, clean bowl and cover it with a clean towel. Put the dough in a warm place in your kitchen, then leave it alone to rise about 2 hours.

You can now use the dough. Or, you can refrigerate it in a large container with a lid. The dough stays good for a week. Refrigeration overnight does seem to improve the flavor, as well.

Baking the bread. Shape 1 pound of the dough into a squat oval shape or small ball. Sometimes, wetting your hands helps if the dough feels too sticky. Let the dough rest for 40 minutes. (If you are pulling the dough out of the refrigerator, let it rest for 1 1/2 hours before baking it.)

Half an hour before you will put the bread into the oven to bake, turn on the oven to 450°.

(Now we slide a Dutch oven in there to heat up. Jeff and Zoë recommend a pizza stone in the oven and a pizza peel sprinkled with cornmeal for resting the bread. Please make sure both are never before used, if you are gluten-free.)

Before baking, make 1/4-inch-deep cuts with a serrated knife to the top of the dough. Pour on a bit of olive oil and sprinkle with coarse sea salt.

Put the dough into the Dutch oven, cover, and return it to the hot oven. (Or, slide the loaf from the pizza peel onto the hot baking stone.) Close the oven door and bake the bread until the top has lightly browned and the bread feels firm, about 35 minutes. (Also, the internal temperature of the bread should be at least 180°.)

You can put a large sauté pan filled with ice cubes on the rack below the one that holds the baking bread. This will create steam in the oven and help to form that golden crust.

Take the bread out of the oven and let it cool at least 15 minutes before slicing. (I know. But really, you have to do this.)

Eat. Enjoy.

Makes 2, 1-pound loaves.




242 comments:

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Anonymous said...

Oh Good Lord, YES! Yes, Yes, YES!!! This post of yours makes me want to stoop and kiss your feet! I haven't been to your site in a very long time, so long, in fact, that you've changed it up since the last time I "stopped in". (Looks great, by the way.) I have always loved bread. I'm a bread girl from WAY back. When I tested positive for celiac disease, nearly 3 1/2 years ago, I knew I would need an endoscopy to "prove" to myself that if I was giving up bread for life, they better be damn sure this celiac diagnosis was real. You know the drill. Continue to eat gluten before the test. I can clearly remember buttering a PERFECTLY toasted english muffin, and gently kissing it before taking a bite. I may have given it a second smooch, just for good measure. Of course, the test showed near total villous atrophy, and the rest, as they say, is history. I've baked my own gluten-free breads, ever since. Some loaves are good, and some experiments are better than others, but mostly, I just say, "eh, it'll do." At least it's bread, right? Needless to say, this latest bread post has me excited! Break out the KitchenAid, baby, it's bread baking time! Needless to say, I'll be purchasing this book...no doubt about it! Thanks for the inspiration!

bcroyal said...

I was once renown for my gluten-filled baked goods. I baked at least one thing a day because of all of my devoted eaters. An then came the news that the gluten had to leave my life for good.
Thus began my foray into GF baking. I have discovered flours that did not exist in my world previously. I have been able to create new flavors, new textures and new fans of my baking. Gluten free baking has taught me to experiment, learn from my flops and celebrate my successes. My taste testers are gluten eaters and are very harsh critics, so the successes are even sweeter. Going gluten free has taught me perseverance.

Jennifer said...

Looks amazing!!! I can't believe it's gluten free! I can't wait to try it! I'm going to run to the store now.

Anna said...

i've realized that although i can make a mediocre baked good with a general "gluten free flour mix" (either my own or store-bought), it's so much more fun to experiment with different flours for different uses: chickpea flour in chocolate, soy flour with banana, etc.!

Melissa Marinelli said...

I have learned about gluten free baking that I only have to try. I eat gluten. I bake a lot. Usually to make people smile. I have a new-ish friend with celiac. I try. It's not always perfect and there are some efforts that are more successful, but the fact that there is dessert for her, a rarity, is much appreciated, and I like the challenge and the opportunity to make one more smile.

Genie Mama said...

I've learned...well, at lot. At times, not very much.

I think baking GF has taught me to be comfortable with my flexibility. I'm the kind of person that cringes when people ask me, "How's your schedule look?" I walk away thinking, "What is this thing they call, 'schedule'?" I don't have them because I am utterly right-brain to the core. A linear concept of time doesn't make sense to me, so I am unscheduled, spontaneous, and flexible. To many, that means I'm undisciplined, unorganized, lazy, and haphazard. I've often been ashamed of it, so I've struggled to fit. It may sound silly but I don't have to worry about this when I'm cooking. I can be spontaneous; I don't have to follow rules and if you're cooking GF, flexibility is a must! So, I can change gears, do it some other way, and go in whatever direction I wish to get to the plate. It's really one of the few places where my 'ways' are a real asset.

Lee Ann said...

I've learned to keep trying and experimenting w/new things. I've also learned to use the internet and blogs to give me new ideas to try.

Jenn Sutherland said...

Wow, Shauna...this bread is AMAZING. I made the dough this morning, and we just sliced into the first loaf a half hour ago - and I fear that it will not make it to the dinner hour. This is the BEST bread that I have eaten in 8 years of living gluten free, and this one will be on my table for years to come. The olives and rosemary in the loaf is heavenly...def going to try sun-dried tomatoes next!

Eileen said...

Thanks for the recipe and inspiration! My GF baking tip is this: if you want a full bread/grain/pastry flavor, texture & nutrition you gotta have some actual grain. Starch + starch + starch may hold together well, it may be crisp and tender and all the other qualities we want, but it won't taste right and will likely not be very good for you. So, work in some sorghum/millet/teff/brown rice flour or other real grains. Your GF baking will be better than ever!

Ann said...

I just made my second batch of this bread. The first one was too wet and too salty, but darn it, it was the closest I've been to good bread in a year. I inhaled it, imperfections and all. So now I'm taking a second whack at it, and I can't wait to master it!

Thes best thing I've learned about gluten free baking is that I have so many options. and that it's crucial to have a sense of play because of it. Millet? Montina? Teff? It's glorious! My "limited" new diet seems to consist of me feeding my friends things they've never had before.

Talie said...

going gluten free has made me really appreciate food... especially the work and effort good food requires. i never baked much before i found out i had celiac, and now i am actually using my kitchenaid and learning how baking is really a science. as i said: before i always LOVED food, but now i appreciate it.

Dream. Imagine. Happen said...

Oh. My. God.

I thought about this bread all week and finally made it today.

I was out of kalamata olives and rosemary, but I didn't want to wait. I made it without. (I am excited to make it with the olives and rosemary...I love that bread.)

Let me just say that I have not had such delicious, crusty, flavorful gluten-free bread in 20 years. I ate half a loaf slathered in butter in one sitting.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

Ann said...

I came back to say this rosemary olive bread made AWESOME crostini. I dried out thin slices in the oven and ate it with good chevre. It was marvelous!

shelley said...

Baking bread always scared me. Even before I went gluten-free, I had never attempted the yeast-knead-rise thing because it was a mystery.

Four years of a bread-free life came to an end yesterday. I baked your artisan bread, minus the olives and rosemary, thinking...let's just see what happens.

The crust came out crispy, the center of the bread was soft and the taste was spectacular. My mouth and my soul were dancing. I ate five slices slathered in butter before I stopped. This morning, I toasted it. Imagine. Toast. For the first time in four years...toast for breakfast!

I am grateful!!

moongypsy said...

Seeing that photo and reading the recipe made my mouth water and my mind overflow with random delirious expletive laced thoughts. OMG, holy crap, I am SO EXCITED! I had given up on ever eating crusty/chewy European style bread again. I cannot begin to describe how much I look forward to trying this recipe.

What have I learned from GF baking? To not fear failure. As nice as it would be, every meal does not have to be restaurant quality. What's the worst that can happen, that my kids have to eat something that isn't very good? Heck, most of their friends eat lousy food every day. Also, I've learned that bean flours make my baked goods taste like falafel. Ewww.

Anonymous said...

All of the bread and pastry recipes look amazing! Just wondering if the rice flour can be substituted with another type of flour. Unfortunately, I am also allergic to rice. Any suggestions?
Thanks.

GarlicGirl said...

Hi Shauna, thanks for sharing. I've been seeing so many great posts about awesome bread recipes from that book! Love your blog!

Chrystal said...

I have learned not to undercook or everything will sink in the middle. My gluten-free bread isn't as forgiving as the gluten-filled kinds from my past. I am super excited about the new book.
I have missed my 5 minute a day bread. I miss it so much I have hung on to the cookbook even though I can't eat a single thing in it.

LizKnits said...

I've learned that you have to be willing to try different things. Not everything works, but sometimes you get a winner. Love the blog! Thanks for sharing all your great ideas.

Jane said...

Oooh! I cannot wait to try (and sample!) this recipe.

Anonymous said...

"Thank you for your post. I so enjoy reading your blog. Due to health concerns, I've recently been eating gluten free and cooking gluten free for both me and my Husband. Sigh- I've had to put aside my beloved breads and pastries - Sigh. As for gluten free baking, dare I say this, I've been eagerly waiting for YOUR cookbook to show me the way. So, I have yet to dip my toe in the water of gluten free baking, but I'm ready, willing, and able to give it a try. All the Best to you and your Family!
-Peg B.

Holly said...

As a mother of 2 gluten and egg free children, it's great to see something so beautiful. I'm always trying to unsuccessfully make bread and end up with lumps of sawdust. Would love to give this a try. Thanks for all the information you provide with such passion.

Chef Fresco said...

This looks so delicious! Congrats on the cookbook!

mizz_b said...

Here's the thing: I've been reading your site for what seems like ages now. Yesterday, after having a follow-up with my Ayurvedic doctor, she told me to go gluten-free. My first thought? Bread. My second thought? Shauna and the Chef.

Unknown said...

I was diagnosed with Celiac in December, and while I've jumped into gluten-free cooking (I'm the primary food preparer for my family) I didn't have the nerve to attempt and baking until reading your recent post. I order a variety of flours online (I live in a pretty small town), and last night decided I just couldn't wait. Ending up making a loaf of bread from your old favorite mix, the Gluten-Free Pantry French Bread that I picked up at Whole Foods. Not the most attractive loaf I've ever seen or made, but the smell of it baking and the joy of biting into the end result brought joy to the whole house. Thanks for the inspiration.

Unknown said...

Oh beautiful boule, I am going to make you today. I will not cook you just yet, no I will save you for tomorrow. You are going to be tasty and lovely and everything I ever dreamed of. I cannot wait for our date, because I know you are the "One".

i-geek said...

Thank you for this recipe and the book recommendation. I've baked a loaf of this bread- or a modified version of it- earlier this afternoon. I don't have kalamata olives or fresh rosemary in the house, so I used a favorite pre-celiac baking flavor combo (sauteed onion and dried Italian herb blend) instead. The dough seemed wetter than it should have been, which might be why mine looks more like soda bread than your beautiful boule. I also somehow managed to scorch something in my dutch oven, so I ended up baking the bread in a casserole dish. There's room for improvement, but my non-GF husband and I both agreed that it tasted very good and would qo nicely with soup for dinner (and in fact he just sliced off another piece for a snack). I've still got half of the dough in the fridge so maybe I'll be able to get a picture-perfect loaf the second time 'round.

Jenn Sutherland said...

I made this bread for the second time today, and it was even BETTER the second time. The difference? Sitting next to a GF Pastry chef at a dinner this week, I peppered him with questions through the whole meal, and thankfully he was a good sport about my enthusiastic interrogation. But he recommended that anytime you're blending flours at home to put them in the food processor and whiz them around a bit together before proceeding to make the bread. He said that it helps to mill them together and add a little more lightness to your dough...and so it did. The crumb was even more open and lofty this time. Thank you so much for this recipe...it's a wonderful gift.

Coach Laura Reifel said...

Shauna, I am (as always) indebted to you for your recipies but also for information. I doubt that I would have ever heard about Zoe and Jeff's book otherwise.

The GF Naan got my attention right away, and I went to Jeff and Zoe's site immediately. Naan is what I've missed most, after pizza. I bought the book - even though I could have gotten the naan and boule recipie for free because I feel I MUST support folks who are not GF but who support us GF people. Just like I bought your first book to support you.

The dough is rising tonight and tomorrow I'll bake my son the boule and perhaps the naan on Tuesday if we get some time.

Thanks again Shauna and Danny!

~Laura

Runner1222 said...

One thing I've learned with gf baking is to enjoy the different flavors of different flours. I remember enjoying baking before going gf and although I would try numerous recipes, they often came out tasting the same. Sometimes there would be a slight difference in taste, but all would be similar--mainly because only wheat flour was being used. With gf baking I have tasted a wide variety of flavors, but am still learning and will always continue to experiment. I have come to find the types of flours I really enjoy as well as one's that are not my preference. I feel that gf baking has opened me up to experiencing new things and not being afraid to try anything new. I have realized some flours work better for cookies (i.e. buckwheat) than it does in bread, but some work really well in bread (i.e. sorghum and millet). Sometimes you just have to laugh at how things turn out- especially the odd shaped and colored bread loaves. Even if things don't turn out right it's fun to keep experimenting with flours and recipes because how else will you learn what you like and don't like? I've always loved to bake even before going gf and while I have had some frustrating and disappointing moments in baking gf I am not the type of person to give up, but to keep trying until I find something that tastes good and that others will enjoy also.

Shauna, I would also like to say "Thank you" for writing your book. Before going gf I did eat healthy, but was somewhat picky on the fruits and vegetables that I would eat. I, for some reason, had this perceived notion that alot of fruits and vegetables wouldn't taste good or I didn't like them (when I really hadn't tried them). After reading your book I realized how much people do rely on processed food and how there really isn't much taste to processed and packaged. I have since found many more fruits and vegetables I love and can't seem to get enough of. I have found a lot of foods I used to eat no longer appeal to me because of their lack of taste, so thank you for writing about your experiences, and helping me find foods that I love, are healthy, and taste delicious.

elh said...

Honestly, I've been in a lot of denial over the last year and half. My issue is a wheat allergy, so I know that deep down I hoped that it would just magically go away like some minor allergies do. My mom would check out books from the library for me and I wouldn't even pick them up. I just didn't want to commit to learning something I didn't want to deal with. I was also greatly discouraged by the cost involved given my rural location... it either involved driving an hour or costly items at the grocery store. The pre made stuff tasted awful, and I thought "WHY BOTHER?". What I learned most in the kitchen was there are somethings that are normally made gluten/wheat free that I had overlooked. Things like skillet corn bread, only has cornmeal and is delicious and I got the recipe off the bag of cornmeal! Polenta is another wonderful thing! I looked to other cultures like Thailand for rice and bean noodle dishes that were to die for. Once I started to love to eat again, it was easier to thinking about trying gf things again with out feeling like I was missing out at every meal.

Anonymous said...

This is the best gluten-free bread! It is oh so very close to the real thing, even in a side-by-side tasting and visual inspection. I made it for my GF mother about a week ago. However, I found out, oh, about three hours ago that I have a gluten allergy. Knowing that this bread is in the world makes the blow a little bit softer. Still difficult, but easier.

I'm very glad you posted the recipe because my doctor asked me for the recipe for this amazing GF bread I was raving about, but I was reluctant to copy the recipe out of my copy of "Healthy Bread." But now I have somewhere to send them!

Anonymous said...

Eek! I have this bread rising right now and I'm so excited. Had an epic struggle with my two-year-old to get her down for a nap, but then ran straight to the kitchen.

Here's my question: does this recipe work in a loaf pan? Maybe a 9x5 pan for the whole two pounds? It looks like one of your pictures shows a loaf-baked version. Really I'm wondering whether you'd adjust the baking temperature for this...

Thanks, Shauna, as always!

Anonymous said...

yay! I made the brioche and my fam ate it all in one day! Turned out great! I even had a gluten eating baker at our bakery give it the test... it passed! great job you totally rock!

steph said...

bread, you say? real bread, that I can eat?! count me in! so excited to find this book and try some of these out.

I'm still pretty new to the baking portion of eating gluten-free, though the cooking portion is going rather well. so far I have been opting for boxed gluten free mixes, mostly from Whole Foods, but I'm ready to try some from scratch. so excited!

I've also just started my own blog and have added a link to your site! such great info here, thanks!

cooperkelly4 said...

First thank you so much for sharing this recipe. We have only been gf for 10 months now, but my best tip yet is: try, try, try again. I am going to get a cup of coffee later and read the other tips! Thanks for the offer to win this new book! Kellyc

Carrie said...

seriously some of the BEST bread I have ever eaten Shauna! Thank you for teaching me this method! I am in love! Just as a note (and I realize this may not always be safe depending what climate people are in) but I allowed my dough to rise and do it's thing on the counter in a stone crock and covered it with a tea towel for nearly 4 hours before I baked it... worked like a charm. Really delicious, soft perfect bread with an AMAZING crust! To die for!! We're gonna be making this bread a LOT! :-)

Betty said...

I've learned that if you add a little potato flour (not potato starch!), up to 1 Tablespoon in most recipes, your texture is better and your crumminess is less. You almost always need xanthan gum as well.

Betty

Earthtonegirl said...

OH MY LORD. It's bread! Really, really bread! I made a loaf on Sunday, and can I tell you, I got NOTHING done at work on Monday because I had bread on the brain all day. I've got the 2nd loaf in the oven now & your book on pre-order. I'm not much of a baker, but this recipe is so easy! I ran out of brown rice flour so I subbed 1/2c teff, 1/2c millet & 1/4c sweet rice.

CAT said...

I have been looking for wheat/gluten free yeast breads. This is great and cannot wait to try it. I have a question though, my hubby cannot have any kind of sugar, including honey. I always wondered if yeast breads would work without the sugars. Could I just leave the honey out?

CLW13 said...

My 11 year old daughter was diagnosed a year ago with gluten intolerance, as well as dairy, egg and casine allergies. The biggest thing that we learned was that eating gluten free CAN be done, and done easily. When you first find out about it, it's so completely overwhelming. As you start reading labels, you find out how many items have gluten in them, that you never suspected would contain gluten.

I have made many garbage-worthy attempts (some even the dog wouldn't eat!) but have also had some amazing successes.

I do spend a lot of time cooking and baking for my family. Since we can't use eggs either, most pre-made items are out as well.

I have also learned that you should write down what you put into a recipe, as you're doing it, so that you can recreate it. I tend to be a "what do I have in the fridge to throw into this recipe" kind of cook (sometimes good, sometimes bad!) But it's hard to recreate a success if you aren't sure what your measurements were.

This is a fabulous blog, and I'm so excited to try the donut recipe you have. My last attempt literally disintegrated when I put them in the oil. Sad...

Thank you for continuing to inspire good GF cooking!

autumn said...

i have these in the oven now and they smell unbelievable. is there any reason why i couldn't make this as one large loaf and just adjust the baking time a little? thank you.

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